45km from Neiva, the capital of the Huila region, and a stone’s throw from the municipality of Villavieja, lies the second largest arid zone in Colombia: the Tatacoa Desert. Its 330 square kilometres of Martian and lunar labyrinths and the breathtaking view of the night sky make it one of Colombia’s major tourist attractions. It is the ideal destination for adventurers who enjoy hiking and extreme landscapes.
What is the Tatacoa Desert?
The misnamed Tatacoa Desert is actually a tropical dry forest that during the Miocene (approximately 15 million years ago) was home to a biodiversity similar to that of the Amazon. Proof of this are the countless fossils found of both aquatic and terrestrial species. The erosion of the terrain has given rise to one of the most inhospitable and at the same time most impressive and beautiful natural landscapes in Colombia.
This desert is the second largest arid area in Colombia after the Guajira peninsula. Its 330 square kilometres are criss-crossed by impressive mazes of canyons and geological formations up to 20 metres high in ochre and grey.
With its semi-arid climate, temperatures are extreme all year round with highs of 40°C during the day and lows of 24°C at night. Its clear skies are ideal for stargazing at observatories in the desert or looking up at the night sky.
Due to its aridity, the predominant plant is the cactus. As for its wildlife, you can find rattlesnakes, to whom the desert owes its name (Tatacoa is the name given by the natives to a now extinct species of rattlesnake), scorpions, spiders, lizards and the goats of the local shepherds.
Travel Tip: To organize your trip we recommend using Passporter totally free. You can be inspired by the experiences of other travelers, choose the places that interest you most, create the travel route with a geolocated map, upload all important documents such as reservations and invite your friends so that everyone can participate in the organization of the trip.
What to see in the Tatacoa Desert?
It is important to know that for safety and health reasons, getting to the Tatacoa Desert is reserved for those who have a hotel reservation or a tourist plan. Also, all visits must be conducted with a certified local guide and wearing a mask is compulsory.
1. Red desert: the Cuzco Trail
The Tatacoa Desert is mainly divided into two large areas differentiated by the colour of their terrain: the red desert (or Cuzco) and the grey desert (or Los Hoyos). Although both are breathtakingly beautiful, Cuzco is undoubtedly the one that gets the most praise, or at least the most visitors and photos. With its red mountains that reach as far as the eye can see, you’d think you were on Mars. You can hike its one-and-a-half hour, difficulty 1 route.
2. Grey desert: the Los Hoyos Trail
This trail is harder (difficulty 3) and longer than the previous one (2 hours). It runs through the area of Los Hoyos where the landscape changes radically in colour to an impressive lunar grey. This is the area of the desert where the greatest number of fossils have been found and where the Congreso de los fantasmas (Congress of Ghosts) is located, rock formations whose name describes them to perfection. The trail ends at natural water pools where many tourists decide to take a dip to cool off after their hike. The price of the pools is between $8,000 and $10,000 COP.
3. Valle de los Xilópalos
One of the essential stops after finishing the Los Hoyos trail. This is a valley formed by an ancient river in which the trees that populated the Tatacoa forest were fossilised, giving rise to xylopods: petrified pieces of wood.
4. Valle de los Deseos
This is another of the iconic places in the Tatacoa Desert. It owes its name to the tradition of tourists erecting small rock towers before leaving. The myth says that when the wind knocks the tower down, the wish will come true.
5. Observatory
The Tatacoa Desert is one of the best places on the planet for observing the night sky. Its proximity to the equator, its practically zero light pollution and its dry climate that keeps the sky clear make this place ideal for admiring the stars. For this reason, there are three astronomical observatories. The Astrosur Astronomical Observatory offers visits every night explaining the wonders of space. Visitors can see celestial wonders through its powerful telescope, such as the constellations, the two hemispheres of the Milky Way and the Perseid showers. The Observatory is open from 18:45 to 22:00 and the price of the talk is $10,000 COP per person.
6. Cycling tours
A nice activity that can easily be done in the Tatacoa Desert, and which may be convenient if you only have one day to visit, are bicycle tours. You can find tuk-tuk services as well as bike tours for COP$140,000, which can be booked in advance or at the hotels themselves. One advantage of these tours is that they start in Villavieja and usually include a tour of the municipality. On the downside, however, the high temperatures can make this activity a bit arduous, so it is advisable to always carry enough water.
7. Villavieja
Although this desert is immense, the area accessible for visits is relatively quick to get around. So if you decide to stay in this part of Colombia for more than a couple of days, we suggest a visit to Villavieja. This municipality is the only town close to the Tatacoa Desert, so it survives largely from the tourism that the desert attracts, as well as from agricultural and livestock farming. If you decide to go, don’t miss the Chapel of Santa Barbara, cultural heritage of Huilla, and the museums. La Casa del Totumo is a shop-museum of handicrafts made from the wood of the totumo, a local tree. The Archaeological Museum of Villavieja, where most of the fossils found in the Tatacoa Desert are displayed, is worth a special mention. The entrance fee is $3.000 COP.
Tourist plans to the Tatacoa Desert
A highly recommended option, especially in the pandemic, is to choose a package tour. There are different companies that offer 1, 2 or 3 day plans that include a guided tour of the desert, a visit to the Astronomical Observatory, swimming in the natural water pools, and some even include food and lodging. Prices for these plans depend on how comprehensive they are, but generally range from COP130,000 to COP300,000. You can book online or in Villavieja.
Tatacoa Desert Travel Map
Where to stay in the Tatacoa Desert?
There is a wide variety of places to stay in the Tatacoa Desert. From fantastic eco-hotels, to quiet cabins in the middle of the desert, to camping areas where you can pitch your tent and sleep directly under the stars.
- Payende Tatacoa: In the middle of the Red Desert and 5 minutes from the Astronomical Observatory, this peaceful lodge is one of the most popular. It has quaint cabins and a camping area. Price: €40-75 per night.
- Qji Glamping biohotel: This exotic glamping just a stone’s throw from the Cuzco Labyrinth seems like a dream for those who want to feel in touch with nature without giving up the comfort of a good mattress, private bathroom and swimming pool. Price: €50-80 per night.
- Pachingo Hostal Camping: A pleasant campsite with à la carte breakfast. Price: <€20.
- Saltaren un Oasis en el Desierto: A four-star desert hotel with swimming pool and disco. Prices: €60-260.
- Hotel Colonial Villavieja: With breakfast included and an outdoor swimming pool, this hotel is a very good option if you want to sleep in Villavieja. Price: €20-60 per night.
Where to eat near the Tatacoa Desert?
When you find yourself immersed in the immensity of the Tatacoa Desert it is not always easy to find places to eat, so one of the most common options is to eat at your accommodation, which will have a restaurant service and often includes breakfast. If this idea doesn’t convince you and you want to try the local restaurants, we recommend going to Villavieja. Sal si Puedes is the best rated restaurant in the town serving fish and meat dishes accompanied by rice and other delicacies such as arepas and mustard chicken.
Some kiosks can be found along the desert trails, but they are not very frequent and they are quite pricey compared to the average in Colombia, so it is important that you plan to bring water and some food for the long hikes.
Frequently asked questions about a trip to the Tatacoa Desert
Average accommodation is less than €70 per night. The most comprehensive desert tours have an average price of COP150,000 (€33) per person.
There are several options for getting to the Tatacoa Desert. While it is true that there are some companies that take you from Medellín and Bogotá, the most common way is to start the journey from Neiva. Once you arrive in the capital of Huila, accessible by plane and bus, if you haven’t booked your package tour in advance, you can take a bus to Villavieja for $7,000 COP or to the Red Desert itself for $15,000 COP per person. An option to get there from Villavieja are the Moto Taxis which cost $15.000 COP.
Temperatures in this desert are extreme in the daytime and often reach 40°C. We recommend wearing long-sleeved but light clothing to protect you from the sun. We also advise avoiding dark-coloured clothing and to always have sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat or cap handy.
At night, however, temperatures cool down to 23°C, so you still won’t need warm clothes, but for those who get chilly easily, we recommend bringing some light clothing to cover up.
The easiest and most environmentally friendly way to explore the Tatacoa’s trails is on foot, although cycling is also possible. That said, the desert is vast and some of the sights are quite far apart. To get around these large areas, you can take the desert buses, rental cars, bicycles or tuk-tuks.
Tips for your trip to the Tatacoa Desert
- Start your walks as early as possible and avoid the middle of the day as the sun and heat can be very unpleasant.
- Make sure you always carry water and something to eat.
- Even if you are tempted, don’t climb over land formations. Some of them are not as stable as they look and can easily crumble. You could hurt yourself and you will also be contributing to the erosion and destruction of the landscape.
- Take a GPS app with you so you don’t get lost. The trails are well marked, but these apps are very useful if you get lost.
- If you spend several days in the Tatacoa Desert, make sure your visit to the Astronomical Observatory coincides with a clear night.
- Always carry some cash with you.
How to organise your trip to the Tatacoa Desert
- Get inspiration from the experiences of other travellers.
- Create your own itinerary and add the app’s suggestions to it.
- Add the spots you are most interested in, as well as the restaurants and bars where you want to eat (you can use the points of interest listed in this post as a reference).
- Organise your itinerary by days and according to their location (you can take inspiration from the routes presented in the post).
- Check the travel budget that the app calculates for you based on your travel stops, restaurants, and leisure activities.
- Make the necessary modifications and you are ready for your trip.
- Finally, share your experience. Upload photos of each of the places you have visited to the app so you can inspire other users.
If you have any doubts, read our post: How to create your travel itinerary with Passporter.
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